Approximate Driving Times:

• Calgary to Mount Robson: 5 1/2 hours
• Mount Robson to Wells Gray: 3 hours

2nd Stop: Wells Gray Park, British Columbia

We were a little surprised at just how many bear we encountered in Wells Gray Park. Within a couple of hours of arrival, we saw our first bear - followed quickly by a second, and then at least another half dozen throughout the weekend. In May, the bear are often found at the side of the road feeding on dandelions and other plants.

We've heard comment upon comment about the beauty of Wells Gray Park. Like many others, we were guilty of bypassing the park in favour of better known areas. Wells Gray is located near the town of Clearwater, about 2 hours north of Kamloops.

Finally lured there by visitors who commented on the Wells Gray Gateway Guesthouse, our only regret was that we didn't go sooner! This park is much underrated for those seeking a quiet wilderness getaway.

It's an easy 3-hour drive from Mount Robson to Wells Gray. Knowing that, we took our time, stopping here and there to check out picnic areas and little hiking spots and letting the dogs do their requisite sniffing.

As you make your way from Mount Robson to Clearwater, you'll pass signage pointing to Murtle Lake, a popular canoe spot in Wells Gray Park. Be aware that dogs are not permitted in the Murtle Lake area. We drove the entire 24 km over a rough road to the lake, knowing that dogs aren't allowed but hoping that there would be a nice view we could see from the car. No such luck; Murtle Lake is a hike-in area.

The Wells Gray Gateway Guesthouse, our pet-friendly accommodation for the weekend, is located about 20 kilometers from the visitor centre in the pretty little town of Clearwater. The road to the guesthouse is paved and the guesthouse is easily accessed.

The guesthouse, located on 300 acres of private land neighbouring Wells Gray Park, is owned by Roland Neave who authored the handy guide, Exploring Wells Gray Park. A copy of the guide can be found in the cabin or you can order one by calling his office. Roland is shown here with Lady, the family dog - a friendly girl who will roll over to have her belly rubbed.

Directions and a hiking guide were provided to us prior our arrival. The cabin is very spacious and well-equipped. There is both electric heat and a woodburning stove for heat. Upon arrival, we discovered that the caretaker had already laid the fire for us in the stove - all we had to do was light it.

The guesthouse has two bedrooms. The first, on the main floor, contains a set of bunk beds. The other is a sleeping loft that makes up the entire second floor of the cabin (watch your dogs! The open staircase proved a little scary to our two). The loft contains a queen-size bed plus two singles. You provide your own bedding and linens.

The kitchen includes a microwave, fridge, stove, and plenty of pots, pans, and cutlery. A small collection of books and games are stacked in the living room bookcase. Although equipped with many modern conveniences, the guesthouse is meant to be a sanctuary from the constant disruptions of modern life: there is no telephone (not even cell access) and no television. Just you, your dogs, and a vast park to explore.

From left to right: kitchen, the living room, and the sleeping loft.

In terms of a pet policy, at the time of writing Wells Gray Gateway Guesthouse doesn't have any size limitations. In fact, at the other cabin - the seasonal hike-in Clearwater River Chalet - there was a guest Malamute. They simply ask that you keep pets off the furniture and rugs since it's difficult to get fur out of them. They don't have any other "rules" other than picking up after your own dogs, of course. Pet fees are a very reasonable per stay fee, rather than per day.

Things To Do

A bird's-eye view of the staircase leading down to the base of Moul falls. The dogs sit on the Moul Falls staircase. It's a bit steep - watch your step, and be careful with small dogs! A view of Moul Falls from the bottom of the stairs.

After consulting our hiking guide we decided to take a short hike to the nearby Moul Falls on our first night. This well-marked hiking trail starts from the cabin, and meanders through the forest for a couple of kilometers until you reach the falls. The viewing platform that you reach first is pretty - but don't stop there! If you look down from the viewing platform, you'll see a set of stairs. These stairs lead nearly to the base of Moul Falls where you'll have a much better viewing opportunity.

The following day we headed back into the park, trying to prioritize what we wanted to see in one short day. A few of the highlights you may want to check out include:

• A drive up to the famous Helmcken Falls, the fourth highest waterfall in Canada. This is just one of many spectacular waterfalls in the park, including Spahats Falls, Dawson Falls, and Moul Falls (see above).

• A visit to the Green Mountain Viewing Tower - wonderful views of the surrounding area. [Note to people with small/short dogs: the steps to the viewing tower are "open", so watch your dogs!]

• If you have the time, go for a hike around Clearwater Lake. Pretty area, popular for canoeing. The guidebook Exploring Wells Gray Park has plenty of suggestions on both short and longer hikes.

The two short days we spent at Wells Gray were definitely not enough - we'll be back, and would happily return to the Guesthouse with our dogs.

Note: if you want to stay in the town of Clearwater itself, contact Clearwater Valley Resort. They offer a number of room and cabin choices, as well as an outdoor pool and on-site restaurant.

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